A Collector’s Journey Through Rolex’s Most Coveted Creations

Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a casual admirer, the marque’s storied catalog offers something to captivate every horological palate – from tool watches steeped in adventure to dress pieces radiating understated elegance. In a recent episode of Fratello Talks, hosts Nacho, Thomas, and Lex embarked on an unscripted deep dive into their personal Rolex hall of fame, unearthing classics, debating sleeper hits, and occasionally clashing over shared favorites. While their selections spanned decades and designs, one thread united them: a passion for the craftsmanship that has cemented Rolex as a titan of watchmaking.  

Before delving into their picks, a glimpse at the watches gracing their wrists sets the stage. Thomas, ever the loyal ambassador, sports his self-designed VPC Type 37HW – a sleek, dove-gray-dialed marvel he describes as the quintessential “go-anywhere, do-anything” companion. Its understated elegance belies the rigorous real-world testing it undergoes daily, a testament to Thomas’s belief in form meeting function. Meanwhile, Lex’s wrist is adorned with Grand Seiko’s SBGX341, a masterclass in minimalist Japanese engineering. Its sunburst champagne dial and zaratsu-polished case offer a quiet sophistication, paired with the unerring accuracy of a 9F quartz movement – proof that reliability need not sacrifice refinement. Nestled between them, Nacho completes the trio with his own VPC Type 37HW, this time in a soft silver iteration, its clean lines and vintage-inspired lume echoing mid-century design principles.

As the conversation shifts to replica Rolex, the rules are simple: each host selects three references, unshackled by era, price, or rarity. Lex opens with a curveball – the Explorer II Reference 1655, a 1970s icon dubbed the “Steve McQueen” (though the actor never actually wore it). Its bold orange GMT hand and asymmetrical case guard, designed for spelunkers and explorers, drew Lex into its rugged charm – until Nacho and Thomas sheepishly admitted they’d planned to champion the same model. Forced to pivot, Nacho resurrects the Explorer 1016, a 36mm legend clad in understated matte black. Its tritium indices, aged to a creamy patina, and stripped-down aesthetic embody a purist’s vision of tool-watch perfection. Not to be outdone, Thomas reaches back to 1958 with the Submariner 5508, a transitional gem bridging Luxury Rolex‘s early dive-watch evolution. Its slender 37mm case, gilt dial, and absence of crown guards whisper of an era when tool watches were raw, unpretentious instruments.

What unfolds is less a debate than a celebration – of design daring, mechanical ingenuity, and the stories these replica watches carry. From Lex’s impassioned defense of the 1655’s quirks to Thomas’s ode to the 5508’s “everyman” appeal, the episode revels in the nuances that make Rolex’s legacy so compelling. (A brief audio hiccup midway through does little to dampen the camaraderie.)

Which models crowned their lists? The answer lies in the full episode. Yet one truth emerges: Rolex’s allure lies not merely in prestige, but in its ability to evolve while honoring its roots. Whether it’s the Explorer’s stoic simplicity or the Submariner’s aquatic pedigree, each watch is a chapter in a narrative spanning over a century.  

As the hosts sign off, they extend an invitation: share your own Rolex chronicles. Which references have etched themselves into your collection – or your dreams? Tune in, debate, and perhaps discover your next horological grail. After all, in the world of Rolex, every watch tells a story.